Rabbit Breed Profile (Part 5)

Havana Rabbit
Varieties: Black, Blue, Chocolate
Weight: Males: 4 1/2 to 6 1/2 pounds, Females: 4 1/ to 6 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is short and rounded. The ears are carried upright, are fairly short, and are carried close together. The fur is soft and dense, and the color is very dark and intense as compared to most other breeds.
Personality: Havanas are a very personable breed. They are one of the calmest of breeds and generally make excellent pets.
Coat Type and Grooming: Havanas have a short coat that is easy to care for. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Himalayan
Varieties: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac. White with colored markings.
Weight: Males: 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 pounds, Females: 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: Himalayans are the only breed to have a body that is extremely long, narrow, and flat. When posed, a good Himalayan will not have any rise in the body from the shoulders to the rump when looked at from the side. When looked at from the top, a good Himalayan will be perfectly straight, with hips the same width as the shoulders. The head is long, and the ears are thing and upright. The rabbit is white with color on the nose, ears, feet, legs, and tail. The eyes are pink.
Personality: Himalayans are generally extremely calm and tolerant. They make excellent pets, and they enjoy attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: Himalayans have a short coat that is easy to care for. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Holland Lop
Varieties: Agouti: Each hair shaft over the body has three or more distinct colors. The belly, underside of the tail, inside of the ears and nostrils, and around the eyes are cream, orange, or white; Pointed White: White with color on the feet, legs, nose, ears, and tail. Pink eyes. Self: One solid color; Shaded: The body is one color and the ears, face, haunches, belly, feet, legs, and tail are a darker color. Ticked: Dark color with silver or gold tipped hairs spread throughout the coat; Wide Band: Markings like that of an agouti, but the hair shafts do not have three or more colors.
Weight: Males: 4 pounds maximum, Females: 4 pounds maximum
Physical Attributes: The body is very short and deep. The overall appearance is of a large rabbit in a small body, with quite a bit of massiveness. The head is short, thick, large, and very round. The ears are short and lopped
Personality: Holland Lops are generally fairly calm, though some, especially females, can be easily startled and shy.
Coat Type and Grooming: Holland Lops have a medium-length coat that sometimes requires a bit of extra grooming. Weekly to bi-weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly to daily grooming may be required.

Hotot Rabbit
Varieties: Standard. White with colored markings.
Weight: Males: 8 to 10 pounds, Females: 9 to 11 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is medium in length and appears very strong. The ears are upright and carried in a "V". The breed is entirely white except a thin band of color around each eye.
Personality: Hotots are generally quite calm and enjoy attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: Hotots have a short coat, very dense coat. It has a fine texture and it appears frosty. Weekly to bi-weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly t daily grooming may be required.

Mini Lop
Varieties: Agouti, broken, pointed white, self, shaded, ticked, or wide band color groups
Weight: Males: 6.5 pounds maximum, Females: 6.5 pounds maximum
Physical Attributes: Muscular and compact.
Personality: In general, the mini lop is a very sweet breed. They tend to be a little less active than some breeds, but there are definitely some clowns among the breed. They thrive on attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: When your Mini Lop begins to lose its baby fur, the change is usually gradual. However, once the adult coat is in, it may be necessary to groom your rabbit. Mini Lops in molt can have large patches of fur falling out. It is wise to use a wire slicker brush to remove the loose fur. A Mini Lop can die from large amounts of ingested fur, so take care to avoid this.

Mini Rex
Varieties: Black, Blue, Broken (Includes Tricolor), Castor, Chinchilla, Chocolate, Himalayan, Lilac, Lynx, Opal, Red, Seal, Tortoise, White
Weight: Males: 3 to 4 1/4 pounds, Females: 3 1/4 to 4 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The mini rex is a small breed with fairly short ears. The face is fairly thick, but it is not particularly short. The body is close-coupled and rounded. It comes in many different colors. The most easily noticed attribute is the amazing fur, which feels like velvet.
Personality: Mini rex are generally a very friendly breed. They have a medium level of activity, and can be perfectly content to play or to just sit on a lap and be petted.
Coat Type and Grooming: The coat is upright, short, and very plush. The guard hairs are the same length as the undercoat, and the coat is very thick, creating a plush, velvety texture. Mini Rex should not be brushed with a brush or a comb unless there is a distinct matt that needs removing. Instead, to remove loose hair, moisten the palm of the hands with water until they are just damp enough to be sticky, then run them over the rabbit's coat backwards. This will remove loose hair and static electricity.

Rex Rabbit
Varieties: Black, Blue, Black Otter, Broken (Includes Tricolor), Californian, Castor, Chinchilla, Chocolate, Lilac, Lynx, Opal, Red, Sable, Seal, White
Weight: Males: 7 1/2 to 9 1/2 pounds, Females: 8 to 10 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The rex is a large breed with upright ears. The face is farily thick, but it is not particularly short. The body is medium in length and rounded. It comes in many different colors. The most easily noticed attribute is the amazing fur, which feels like velvet.
Personality: Rex are generally a very friendly breed. They have a low to medium level of activity, and can be perfectly content to play or to just sit on a lap and be pet.
Coat Type and Grooming: The coat is upright, short, and very plush. The guard hairs are the same length as the undercoat, and the coat is very thick, creating a plush, velvety texture. Rex should not be brushed with a brush or a comb unless there is a distinct matt that needs removing. Instead, to remove loose hair, moisten the palm of the hands with water until they are just damp enough to be sticky, then run them over the rabbit's coat backwards. This will remove loose hair and static electricity.

Satin Angora Rabbit
Varieties: Agouti: Each hair shaft over the body has three or more distinct colors. The belly, underside of the tail, inside of the ears and nostrils, and around the eyes are cream, orange, or white; Pointed White: White with color on the feet, legs, nose, ears, and tail. Pink eyes; Self: One solid color; Shaded: The body is one color and the ears, face, haunches, belly, feet, legs, and tail are a darker color; Ticked: Dark color with silver or gold tipped hairs spread throughout the coat; Wide Band: Markings like that of an agouti, but the hair shafts do not have three or more colors.
Weight: Males: 6 1/2 to 9 1/2 pounds, Females: 6 1/2 to 9 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The Satin angora has long fur on the body and cheeks. The face has no long fur and the ears have either no long fur or only a tiny tuft of long fur at the tips. The fur has a distinct shine too it, like the material satin, caused by a hollower hair shaft than normal. The body is medium in length and is rounded. The head is oval. The ears are upright.
Personality: Most Satin angoras are very calm due to years of being bred for good temperaments in order to properly groom the breed.
Coat Type and Grooming: Satin Angoras have very long, shiny fur which needs to be groomed at least every few days. It is easier to groom than the other angora breeds, but still requires frequent grooming. A slicker brush and a comb, preferably with rotating teeth, are a must for grooming. A letter opener is good for splitting matts apart. Clippers are a good idea in case the rabbit ever needs to be shaved, such as in very warm weather or when being bred.

Standard Chinchilla Rabbit
Varieties: Chinchilla. The color resembles a real chinchilla, with a wavy white and black surface color.
Weight: Males: 5 to 7 pounds, Females: 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is short and round. The face is full and the ears are fairly short and upright. The color at the base of the fur, next to the skin, is slate blue. Then there is a band of white hair, followed by a narrow band of black fur.
Personality: Standard Chinchillas are generally quite calm and enjoy attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: Standard Chinchillas have a short coat that is fairly easy to care for. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Rabbit Breed Profile (Part 4)

French Angora Rabbit
Varieties: Agouti: Each hair shaft over the body has three or more distinct colors. The belly, underside of the tail, inside of the ears and nostrils, and around the eyes are cream, orange, or white; Pointed White: White with color on the feet, legs, nose, ears, and tail. Pink eyes; Self: One solid color; Shaded: The body is one color and the ears, face, haunches, belly, feet, legs, and tail are a darker color; Ticked: Dark color with silver or gold tipped hairs spread throughout the coat; Wide Band: Markings like that of an agouti, but the hair shafts do not have three or more colors.
Weight: Males: 7 1/2 to 10 1/2 pounds, Females: 7 1/2 to 10 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The French angora has long fur only on the body, legs, and cheeks. The head, ears, and feet have short fur. The body is medium in length and is rounded. The ears are upright.
Personality: Most French angoras are very calm due to years of being bred for good temperaments in order to properly groom the breed. One will often see a French angora upside-down having its belly brushed.
Coat Type and Grooming: French Angoras have very long fur which needs to be groomed at least every few days. It is easier to groom than the other angora breeds, but still requires frequent grooming. A slicker brush and a comb, preferably with rotating teeth, are a must for grooming. A letter opener is good for splitting matts apart. Clippers are a good idea in case the rabbit ever needs to be shaved, such as in very warm weather or when being bred.

Giant Angora Rabbit
Varieties: White. Pure white with red eyes.
Weight: Males: 9 1/2 pounds and over, Females: 10 pounds and over
Physical Attributes: The Giant angora has long fur over the body, head (not the face), ears, feet, and legs. The fur on the face and ears is not as thick as that of an English angora. The body is medium in length and is rounded. The ears are upright and are carried in a V-shape.
Personality: Most Giant angoras are very calm due to years of being bred for good temperaments in order to properly groom the breed.
Coat Type and Grooming: Giant Angoras have very long fur which needs to be groomed at least every other day, preferably every day. Young rabbits require more grooming as their coat is softer and matts easier. A slicker brush and a comb, preferably with rotating teeth, are a must for grooming. A letter opener is good for splitting matts apart. Clippers are a good idea in case the rabbit ever needs to be shaved, such as in very warm weather or when being bred.

Giant Chinchilla Rabbit
Varieties: Chinchilla. The color resembles a real chinchilla, with a wavy white and black surface color.
Weight: Males: 12 to 15 pounds, Females: 13 to 16 pounds
Physical Attributes: The shoulders are fairly long, moving into a medium-length body which rounds over the rump. The ears are upright and fairly long. The color at the base of the fur, next to the skin, is slate blue. Then there is a band of white hair, followed by a narrow band of black fur.
Personality: Giant Chinchillas are generally quite calm and enjoy attention. They are often referred to as one of the gentle giant breeds.
Coat Type and Grooming: Giant Chinchillas have a short coat that is easy to care for. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Harlequin Rabbit
Group: Commercial
Varieties: Japanese: Orange with colored markings. Magpie: White with colored markings.
Weight: Males: 6 1/2 to 9 pounds, Females: 7 to 9 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is medium in length and round. The ears are upright. The markings are very unique. The breed has bands of orange or white and color, alternating. A good Harlequin will have white or orange on one side of the face with a straight, clean line dividing it from the other side of the face, which would be colored. The ear attached to the white or orange side would be colored, and the ear attached to the colored side would be white or orange. The body has stripes of white or orange and color.
Personality: Harlequins are generally quite calm and enjoy attention. True to their clown-like appearance, they are curious and love to be the center of attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: Harlequins have a short coat that is easy to care for. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Rabbit Breed Profile (Part 3)

Dwarf Hotot

Varieties: Standard. White with colored markings.
Weight: 2 1/2 pounds maximum, Females: 2 1/2 pounds maximum
Physical Attributes: The body is very short and round. The ears are upright, quite short, and thick. The breed is entirely white except a thin band of color around each eye.
Personality: Dwarf Hotots are generally quite calm and enjoy attention. They are a curious breed and enjoy toys and other mental stimulation.
Coat Type and Grooming: Dwarf Hotots have a short coat that is fairly easy to care for. Weekly groomings with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

English Angora

Varieties: Agouti: Each hair shaft over the body has three or more distinct colors. The belly, underside of the tail, inside of the ears and nostrils, and around the eyes are cream, orange, or white; Pointed White: White with color on the feet, legs, nose, ears, and tail. Pink eyes; Self: One solid color; Shaded: The body is one color and the ears, face, haunches, belly, feet, legs, and tail are a darker color; Ticked: Dark color with silver or gold tipped hairs spread throughout the coat; Wide Band: Markings like that of an agouti, but the hair shafts do not have three or more colors.
Weight: Males: 5 to 7 pounds, Females: 5 to 7 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The English Angora resembles, literally, a ball of fluff. The only portion of the rabbit that has short fur is the face. The rest, ears and legs included, is covered in long fur. The face is fairly short, and the body is rounded.
Personality: Most English angoras are very calm due to years of being bred for good temperaments in order to properly groom the breed. One will often see an English angora upside-down having its belly brushed.
Coat Type and Grooming: English Angoras have very long, fine fur which requires daily grooming. It matts very easily due to its silky texture. A slicker brush and a comb, preferably with rotating teeth, are a must for grooming. A letter opener is good for splitting matts apart. Clippers are a good idea in case the rabbit ever needs to be shaved, such as in very warm weather or when being bred.

English Spot Rabbit

Varieties: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Gold, Gray, Lilac, Tortoise. White with markings.
Weight: Males: 5 to 8 pounds, Females: 5 to 8 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is long and arched. It is fairly slender, and the legs are long. The ears are carried upright. The body is white with a nose marking in the shape of a butterfly, a spot on each cheek, circles around each eye, colored ears, a line with ragged edges down the spine, color on top of the tail, a chain of small spots on each side, and a spot on each elbow and the back of each hind foot.
Personality: The body is long and arched. It is fairly slender, and the legs are long. The ears are carried upright. The body is white with a nose marking in the shape of a butterfly, a spot on each cheek, circles around each eye, colored ears, a line with ragged edges down the spine, color on top of the tail, a chain of small spots on each side, and a spot on each elbow and the back of each hind foot.
Coat Type and Grooming: English Spot have a short, easy to care for coat. Weekly groomings with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Flemish Giant Rabbit

Varieties: Black, Blue, Fawn, Light Gray, Sandy, Steel, Gray, White.
Weight: Males: 13 pounds and over, Females: 14 pounds and over
Physical Attributes: The shoulders and body are long and very powerful in appearance. The rump is rounded, and the entire rabbit is very solid. The ears are long and the head is large and broad.
Personality: Flemish Giants are generally quite calm and enjoy attention. They are known as one of the gentle giant breeds.
Coat Type and Grooming: Flemish Giants have a short coat that is fairly easy to care for. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Florida White Rabbit

Varieties: White. Pure white with pink eyes.
Weight: Males: 4 to 6 pounds, Females: 4 to 6 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is short and rounded. The head is round and well-filled, and the ears are carried upright and are thick.
Personality: Florida Whites are generally fairly calm.
Coat Type and Grooming: Florida Whites have a short coat that is easy to care for. Weekly groomings with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required

Rabbit Breed Profile (Part 2)

Champagne D'Argent Rabbit

Varieties: Standard. Bluish white with longer black hairs throughout the coat, giving the rabbit the appearance of old silver.
Weight: Males: 9 to 11 pounds, Females: 9 to 11 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is medium in length and round. The ears are upright. The color is what makes the Champagne D'Argent so special. Kits are born pure black and they gradually turn silver as they get older. Only the nose, the ears, around the eyes remain somewhat dark. An old Champagne D'Argent might be entirely silver except for the nose and the ears.
Personality: Champagne D'Argents are generally quite calm and enjoy attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: Champagne D'Argents have a short, easy to care for coat. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Checkered Giant Rabbit

Varieties: Black, Blue. The body is white with a coloured nose marking in the shape of a butterfly, a circle of colour around each eye, a spot on each cheek, coloured ears, a straight line down the spine and top of the tail, and two large spots of colour on each side of the body.
Weight: Males: 11 pounds and over, Females: 12 pounds and over
Physical Attributes: The body is long and arched. It is fairly heavy as compared to other Full Arch Group breeds, though the legs are still long. The ears are long and upright, and the markings are unique to the breed.
Personality: Checkered Giants can be temperamental. Many dislike their ears being touched, and they tend startle easily.
Coat Type and Grooming: Checkered Giants have a short, easy to care for coat. Weekly groomings with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Cinnamon Rabbit

Varieties: Standard. Rust or cinnamon color.
Weight: Males: 1/2 to 10 1/2 pounds, Females: 9 to 11 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is medium in length and round. The ears are upright. The color is what makes the Cinnamon so special. The body is rust or cinnamon in color with smoke gray across the back. The belly is a darker smoke gray. The face, ears, feet, legs, and tail have a very dark smoke gray or black color on them.
Personality: Cinnamons are generally fairly calm.
Coat Type and Grooming: Cinnamons have a short, easy to care for coat. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Crème D'Argent

Varieties: Standard. Creamy-white.
Weight: Males: 8 to 10 1/2 pounds, Females: 8 1/2 to 11 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is medium in length and round. The ears are upright. The color is what makes the Creme D'Argent so special. The color is creamy-white with an bright orange cast. The belly is creme white, and the nose and muzzle are deeper orange than the rest of the body. The breed is born orange and gets lighter as it gets older. Old Creme D'Argents may be quite light
Personality: Creme D'Argents are generally quite calm and enjoy attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: Creme D'Argents have a short, easy to care for coat. Weekly grooming with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Dutch Rabbit

Varieties: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Gray, Steel, Tortoise. Colored with white markings.
Weight: Males: 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 pounds, Females: 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is med short and round. The ears are upright. The nose is completely white. There is color from the ears down to the cheeks, leaving a stripe of white from the chest, onto the nose, and narrowing to a very fine line that runs between the ears and widens again as it reaches the body. The front of the rabbit is white, then it becomes colored about halfway. The color goes all the way back to the tail, but the hind feed have white on the front portion.
Personality: Dutch are generally quite calm and enjoy attention. The breed has been a popular pet for many years.
Coat Type and Grooming: Dutch have a short coat that is easy to care for. Weekly groomings with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

Rabbit Breed Profile (Part 1)

American Chinchilla Rabbit

Varieties: Chinchilla. The color resembles a real chinchilla, with a wavy white and black surface color.
Weight: Males: 9 to 11 pounds, Females: 10 to 12 pounds
Physical Attributes: The body is medium in length and round. The ears are upright. The color at the base of the fur, next to the skin, is slate blue. Then there is a band of white hair, followed by a narrow band of black fur.
Personality: American Chinchillas are generally quite calm and enjoy attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: American Chinchillas have a short coat that is fairly easy to care for. Weekly groomings with a slicker brush are fine, except during shedding season when bi-weekly grooming may be required.

American Fuzzy Lop

Varieties: Agouti: Fur has three or more bands of color on each shaft. Belly, underside of tail, inside nostrils and ears, and around eyes is cream, orange, or white. Includes chestnut agouti and chinchilla; Pointed White: White with color on the ears, nose, feet, legs, and tail. Pink eyes; Self: One solid color. Includes black, blue, ruby eyed white (albino), and chocolate; Shaded: Body of one color with darker color over the face, ears, feet, legs, tail, belly, and haunches. Includes Sable Point, Siamese Sable, and Tortoise Shell; Wide Band: Markings similar to that of an agouti, but the fur shafts do not have three or more colors per shaft. Includes Fawn and Orange; Broken: White in combination with any recognized variety.
Weight: 4 pounds maximum, Females: 4 pounds maximum
Physical Attributes: The American fuzzy lop is a very round breed with a short, wide face and short, lopped ears. The fur is long, and it comes in many different colors.
Personality: American fuzzy lops tend to have a wide variety of temperaments. Some are very calm and friendly, while others are quite hyper and skittish. Males tend to be calmer, whereas females tend to be more shy.
Coat Type and Grooming: The coat is long and dense. It is slightly coarse, so does not mat as easily as many other long-haired breeds. Young rabbits require more grooming as their coat is softer and matts more easily.

American Sable Rabbit

Varieties: Sable. Rich sepia brown on the body with darker sepia brown on the ears, face, back, legs, and upper portion of the tail.
Weight: Males: 7 to 9 pounds, Females: 8 to 10 pounds
Physical Attributes: The American sable's most unique attribute is its distinct coloring, and the ruby red glow in its eyes. Other notable attributes are the very soft fur and the rounded body.
Personality: American sables tend to be quite friendly and love attention.
Coat Type and Grooming: The coat is medium in length, fine, soft, and very dense. American sables tend to shed in patches, and they often take a long time to shed, so they may require more grooming than some breeds. A slicker brush is good.

Belgian Hare Rabbit

Varieties: Standard. Brilliant, deep red with black hairs interspersed evenly and with a wavy appearance.
Weight: Males: 6 to 9 1/2 pounds, Females: 6 to 9 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The Belgian Hare looks like a jackrabbit. It is brown like one and has a very long, arched body like one. The ears are long and open, and the legs are very long and thin.
Personality: Belgian Hares are generally friendly, but they do tend to startle easily. They are very curious and enjoy toys and activities to keep them busy.
Coat Type and Grooming: Belgian Hares have a very short, stiff coat. It lies very close to the body, and is quite easy to groom. A soft brush during shedding season is the only grooming normally required.
Brittania Petite Rabbit
Group: Full Arch
Varieties: Black, Black Otter, Chestnut Agouti, Ruby Eyed White, Sable Marten
Weight: 2 1/2 pounds maximum; Females: 2 1/2 pounds maximum
Physical Attributes: Britannia Petites are small, delicate-looking rabbits. They have fairly long, slender, arched bodies similar to a hare. They have short, upright ears and a wedge-shaped face. They stand up tall due to long front legs.
Personality: Britannia Petites tend to be more high strung than many breeds. Their standard of perfection calls for a lively rabbit, and that a temperamental Britannia Petite is sometime to be expected. They are exceptionally curious and require toys and human interaction to prevent boredom.
Coat Type and Grooming: Britannia Petites have short, fine, dense fur that lies close to the body. It has a silky texture to it. Grooming is fairly easy with a weekly brushing by a slicker brush being all that is needed normally. During the shedding season, bi-weekly brushings may be required.

Californian Rabbit

Varieties: Standard. White with black on the nose, ears, feet, legs, and tail. Pink eyes.
Weight: Males: 8 to 10 pounds, Females: 8 1/2 to 10 1/2 pounds
Physical Attributes: The Californian is a very solid breed. It's body is medium in length and is rounded. Its coloring is what makes it unique.
Personality: Californians are generally fairly calm.
Coat Type and Grooming: Californians have a short coat that rests close to the body. Grooming once a week with a slicker brush is plenty, except in shedding season where bi-weekly grooming may be needed.

Rabbit Diet

Rabbits are obligate herbivores designed to consume large amounts of plant material which is high in indigestible (lignified) fibre. They should be fed on good hay, fresh grass, wild plants, herbs, dried grass, good grass or hay based pellets supplemented with vegetables, a little fruit as a treat and willow, fruit or hazel twigs to strip.
Their wild diet consists of grasses and wild plants supplemented with roots and bark when food is scarce. Their teeth grow continuously and need the constant chewing action involved in eating 100 small meals a day, and the abrasive action of the mineral rich fibre against their teeth, to keep them ground down to a suitable length.
The rabbit's digestive system depends on the indigestible fibre in the diet to keep keep food moving through the gut at the right speed. Too fast and the rabbit cannot digest food, too slow and the pH of the gut starts to favour disease causing bacteria instead of the friendly bacteria that help the rabbit break down digestible fibre, protein and carbohydrate.
The length of fibre is also important, finely powdered plant material cannot be used as indigestible fibre. The minimum length of fibre used in rabbit pellets should be 2.5mm. Unfortunately, manufacturers of rabbit feeds are only required to list total fibre in the declared analysis. There is no way of really knowing how much of that is digestible and how much indigestible. Digestible fibre is used for energy in much the same way as carbohydrate. There is also no minimum length of fibre required, so if the fibre used is too short then the total fibre quoted can again be misleading.
The best rabbit food I have come across is the German Bunny range of diets available in the UK from Zooplus. All of them are high fibre and other than the addition of some wheatgerm and oatgerm they are grain free. In fact they are almost entirely made up of a range of herbs and grasses. The unique shape of the Bunny pellets encourage good wear on the teeth and allows the inclusion of long fibre in the pellets themselves that is essential for the rabbit gut. Bunny Green Dream Young is 15% protein and 20% fibre; Bunny Green Dream Staple is higher in fibre at 21% and lower in protein at 13% but still with the same healthy hay, grass and herb ingredients. There is also a herbal version, Bunny Green Dream Herbal with 20% fibre and 12.5% protein.
Check the analysis of many of the rabbit foods on the market and although the Small Animal Veterinary Association recommends a diet high in fibre with a lower level of protein, many rabbit foods do not have enough fibre or have too much protein in relationship to fibre.
Rabbits are selective feeders and may refuse to eat certain ingredients in a mix leading to dietary imbalance and health problems. The coloured biscuits, grains and pulses in rabbit mixes would not normally form a part of the natural rabbit diet and manufacturers compensate for this by adding extra calcium and fibre to the pellets in the mix to balance the excess phosphorous in the grains and the lack of fibre in those other ingredients.
A rabbit which eats only the biscuits and flakes from a mix runs the risk of calcium deficiency and slow transit time through the gut (leading to dysbiosis). A rabbit eating only the balancer pellets from a mix would be consuming excess calcium which might cause problems if not excreted. Fortunately rabbits have the ability to excrete excess calcium in their urine, leaving a white 'tide mark'. If the levels are too high then the rabbit may develop gravel in the urine or calculi (stones)

Saving Wild Baby Rabbits

"HELP! I found a baby wild rabbit! What should I do?"

That is something rabbit breeders hear all too often, especially in springtime. In most cases, young, inexperienced baby rabbits are found shortly after the mother has kicked them out of the nest. People stumble across the babies, assume they are orphans, and try to do the right thing by giving them cow's milk and cabbage, which often is fatal for the babies.
So what should you do if you find wild baby rabbits? The answer to this question is pretty simple: in most cases you should leave them where you found them. Wild rabbits do not need human help, unless the mother rabbit has been killed. Do not handle them (or any other wild animal) unless absolutely necessary. Wild rabbits are host to fleas, ticks, lice, and other parasites that can transmit disease to humans and domestic animals alike.
How can you tell if a baby rabbit is old enough to fend for itself? Look for a white blaze on their foreheads. If they don't have the blaze, they are old enough to be outside on their own. Just leave them alone. If they do have a white blaze, they are still under their mother's care. Leave them in their nest or put them back if they're outside of the nest. If you are concerned that the mother has abandoned the babies, take two twigs and lay them in an "X" over the nest. When mother rabbit comes to feed them, she will disturb the twigs.
Wild female rabbits build shallow nests (called "forms") and only visit the nest once or twice a day to nurse. The rest of the time, they will be out of sight but probably nearby. A mother rabbit's infrequent visitations are meant to keep the nest hidden - more frequent visits would draw unwelcome attention from predators. Because the doe visits the nest typically just before dawn and just after dark, it can appear as if the babies were abandoned. If the babies have full bellies, they are being cared for, and the best thing you can do is to leave them alone.
If you know the mother rabbit to be deceased (say, a dog catches her and you find the nest) or if the nest has been destroyed, call your state Wildlife or Fish & Game department or a wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible. Your veterinarian probably can help you locate a wildlife rehabilitator because vets typically get dozens of calls every spring like this. You can also do a search on the Internet for a wildlife rehabilitation information directory to find a wildlife rehabilitator nearest you. Rehabbers are listed by state. It is important that you get the babies to someone who is experienced in raising rabbits and is licensed by the state to do so because it is really difficult work to raise baby wild bunnies to adulthood.
In this situation, you might need to nurse the babies until you can get appropriate care arranged for them. Here's a rabbit formula you can make to feed them.

RABBIT MILK FORMULA
1 can of sweetened condensed milk or fresh goat's milk (don't use cow's milk)
3 tablespoons heavy cream
3 tablespoons Karo corn syrup1 egg yolk
Combine ingredients in a plastic bowl.
Warm in microwave and heat mixture until it's slightly above room temperature.
Test it by putting a few drops of the formula on your wrist first because you don't want to accidentally scald the babies.

Feed the babies with a pet nurser bottle or a feeding syringe or an eyedropper, and do so slowly. Baby rabbits are quite uncoordinated and can easily inhale fluid into their lungs. If they aspirate the formula into their lungs, they will die. Please, take it slow!
After feeding the babies, you must massage their lower abdomen with a warm, moist washcloth to stimulate urination and defecation. Feed them every three hours or so.
The baby rabbits should be kept in a cardboard box. Place a blanket or old sweatshirt inside for them to snuggle into. You will need a heat source to keep them warm. Place a heating pad beneath the box set on low (or medium, but beware of high heat - you don't want them to cook). A hot water bottle will also work for a heat source, or in a pinch, a 60 watt lightbulb placed over the box (you must make sure they don't get too hot). Ideal temperature is around body temperature; anywhere from 85 to 98 degrees Fahrenheit will suffice. If the babies are restless and are trying to get away from the heat, it is too hot for them.
The babies must be kept warm at all times. Feed them only when they are nice and warm. Cold babies do poorly - their digestion falters, and they will usually die. Handle them as little as possible; wild rabbits are very sensitive and can die from the shock of being handled by a human!
After nursing them, you might be tempted to keep them as pets. Don't do this! Wild rabbits are meant to be free and do not make good pets. They are skittish, nervous, and can be very aggressive when mature. They do not deal well interacting with humans because they are very sensitive and can stress out quickly. It is also illegal to keep wild animals or game without the proper permit from the F&WS or your state Wildlife or Fish & Game department.
Note: if you find a wild baby rabbit that was caught by a predator such as a cat or dog, the baby can have severe internal injuries and will probably die from the shock alone. A loss of one wild rabbit or even a whole litter is not a threat to the species. Up to 95 percent of all wild rabbits die before they are six months old. It's cruel, but it is nature's way.

Myths About Baby Rabbits

Many people feel they must get a young bunny when they choose a rabbit companion. This choice could be the wrong one.
Myth: A young rabbit is easier to litter train.
Truth: An adult, neutered or spayed rabbit is easier to litter train than a baby. Like a small child or puppy, a young rabbit has accidents and needs to be cleaned up after during training. When bunny reaches sexual maturity (3-6) months), s/he may begin spraying and appear to lose all the litter box training you worked so hard to achieve. At that point, get a veterinarian referral from House Rabbit Society and have your rabbit neutered or spayed.

Myth: My child needs a baby bunny so they can grow up together.
Truth: Your child won't know how to take care of a baby bunny and may hurt him. The rabbit is an adult's responsibility, no matter what age the child is. Rabbits are physically delicate animals and are a poor choice for a child under the age of five. If picked up, bunnies are not designed to be able to hold on. If the rabbit is an all-round family member and play with the bunny is supervised, then a child can grow up with a rabbit. A large, adult rabbit will command the most respect from a child.

Myth: Baby bunnies are naturally docile.
Truth: Baby rabbits are active, playful, and chew everything in sight. They are much more destructive than most adult rabbits. It's also hard to tell what personality the baby will have as an adult.

Myth: Baby bunnies love to be held and mothered.
Truth: Most baby bunnies are too busy dashing madly around the house, squeezing behind dressers, and chewing baseboards and rugs to be held for long. As bunny grows older, she'll settle down and will come sit by you and, possibly, like to be held. Of course, every rabbit, like every person, is different. These are general observations.

So Who Should Get a Baby Rabbit?
A baby rabbit is a good choice for a person who:*has lots of time, a house that can stand to be chewed, and a stable residence*expects accidents when baby forgets where the litterbox is*is patient and doesn’t scream on discovering the new shoes have been nibbled*doesn’t go away for a long time and leave a hyper baby locked up in a cage*knows the cute baby may grow into a rather large rabbit and may have a different personality as an adult*understands that when bunny matures, there will need to be a neuter/spay appointment and isn’t fazed when cute baby sprays urine on the walls. S/he knows that neutering will stop the problem.Baby rabbits, like adults, need exercise and challenges and should not be kept in a cage all of the time.

Where To Put The Rabbit Babies

Make the babies a soft nest area in a box with clean towels. We like to put one folded towel on the bottom and another bunched on top of that, so the babies can snuggle into it. You can also purchase soft nesting wool from a pet store and put that on top of the towel. Cover the box with a towel so it is dark, making sure that there will be enough air so the babies do not suffocate. Leaving about a one inch gap at the top is usually sufficient. Keep the babies in an out-of-the way, QUIET area, such as an adult's bedroom. If the room temperature is between 68-72 degrees you will not need to provide extra heat, but if it's cooler than that you will need to provide extra warmth. Use a heating pad set on low and slip it under one half only of the bottom towel in the box. We do it this way so that the babies can move to a cooler area if it gets too warm. ALWAYS make sure that the heating pad is covered, as babies can burn themselves very badly on an exposed heating pad.
If the babies were with their mamma, but she is not caring for them (and you are sure she is ignoring them) you will need to separate her from them, so they will not get hurt. If she has created a nest, use that material in the box that you have made to hold the babies. Rabbits nurse only ONE TIME a day, so if you think that she is not caring for them based only on the fact you don't see them feed...think again. But if you are sure she is neglecting them, if they are dehydrated, cold, obviously ignored, of course, something must be done!
WHAT TO FEED THE BABIES
Baby rabbits should be fed Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR), which you can buy at pet stores, or sometimes even a local veterinarian's office. Because rabbit milk is the most caloric of all mammals, we add in one tablespoon of cream to each can of KMR. Unless you are familiar with and skilled at tube feeding babies, use an eye dropper or sterile oral syringe, which can be purchased at most pharmacies. Feed baby rabbits no more than twice a day. Baby rabbits normally feed only ONCE a day, but you're not mama and the KMR is not as caloric as rabbit milk---so if baby does not take in the total amount quoted below in one feeding, you may split the feedings in half, AM/PM - but no more frequently as it can cause severe gastrointestinal distress. Overfeeding is a leading cause of death in infant [domestic] rabbits.
If this is a wild rabbit, handle it ONLY during feedings and make sure to keep it in a quiet, safe, out-of-the-way area of your home, as excessive handling and human interaction can be extremely stressful and potentially fatal, and will lessen its chance or survival once released back into the wild.
Following is a guideline for the daily amount to feed a domestic OR wild rabbit who will be approximately 5-6 pounds as an adult (average rabbit size). You can increase the amounts as needed for larger breeds. Remember, if the rabbit does not eat the full amount listed, feed the remainder later, but do not feed more than twice a day.
For the BEST results, go to your local health food store (GNC has this) and get a bottle of ACIDOPHILUS. Ask for the capsules that have the "grainy stuff" inside (they are easier to mix than the “powdery stuff”) and add it to the KMR at each feeding.
Baby rabbits feed from their mothers while lying on their backs. You may loosely wrap baby in a soft face cloth or hand towel and lay it on your lap or in the crook of your arm. If bunny will NOT eat this way, of course, do the best you can. It is ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL to let the baby eat at it's own pace---especially if it is not suckling from you (i.e. if you are using a dropper or syringe to feed it...). If you squirt the liquid in too quickly you can aspirate (get liquid in) the lungs and the rabbit will suffocate.
After each feeding it is important to make the bunny defecate and urinate to keep the intestinal tract and urinary system running smoothly. Use a soft cloth or a cotton ball moistened with warm water and gently stroke from between the bunny's front legs all the way down over the anal area until the bunny starts producing stool and urine, and keep stroking until the bunny stops. You are replicating the behavior of the mother rabbit who would lick her young to stimulate them to go to the bathroom (as well as to keep the nest clean). The stool will be soft and may be varying shades of green and yellow. Be sure to clean baby's mouth with a damp cloth or paper towel, so that no milk dries in the hair.
Baby rabbit eyes open at about 10 days of age. You may start introducing them to hay and pellets at this point, but no veggies or fruits yet. Just leave some hay and pellets in a corner of the box where the babies can easily get to them. Make sure it the pellets are plain, high fiber and fresh, with no added goodies such as dried banana chips or seeds. Don't ever leave a deep water dish in which a baby could drown; instead, use something shallow and rinse and fill it frequently.
IF THESE ARE WILD RABBIT BABIES: Start giving them small amounts of pesticide-free greens and timothy or oat hay at this point (grass, dandelions, weeds, parsley...), but you do not need to introduce them to pellets, as the goal is to release them back into the wild where the food is not that high in protein. If they are eating pellets and then released into the wild, the change in diet could kill them.
Again, it is critical that you handle wild babies only for feeding and cleaning, or for wound care – as necessary. Keep them in a quiet area away from family goings-on. The goal is to keep them as wild as possible so that they will have a better chance when re-released.
Wild rabbits do not make good pets. The do not become docile like their domesticated cousins and they will be happier in the wild, where they belong. It is illegal and cruel to keep a healthy wild animal as a “pet.”
If you can find a wildlife rehabilitator in your are who will care for and release the babies, this is your best bet. Wild rabbits should be released as soon as they are eating hay and greens, are urinating, defecating and drinking well and are approximately 5 inches in body length. They will be small, but the longer you keep them, the more agitated and difficult to handle they will become and the less likely their chances for survival in the wild. Make sure to release them in a safe place, where no pesticides are used--and where they will not run out into a street! It is best to release them in the early morning so that they have the day to acclimate. Community parks are NOT the place to release ANY rabbit, let alone a wild one. Prior to the release date, try taking drives and/or walks in the dawn & dusk hours (rabbits are crepuscular) in rural and country-ish areas and find out where other wild rabbits live. We choose to release our babies very early in the morning (5AM) or lat in the afternoon (4-5PM) in order that they have some time to acclimate and find a place to hide. We always make sure to leave several days supply of hay and water, so the babies will not starve or dehydrate will acclimating to their surroundings. It is best to leave the hay and water right next to large bushes, so the rabbits will have some place to run into should a predator come along while they are eating/drinking.

Litter Train Your Rabbit

One thing a lot of people don't realize is that most rabbits can be litter box trained, just like a cat!
Basically, what you want to do is take advantage of your bunny's natural tendency to deposit their droppings in just one or two places.

Start off by confining your bunny in just one room (even if you intend to give him the run of the whole house). A tiled floor is best to start (maybe in your kitchen)

Make sure that the litter tray is easily accessible on at least one side, but with high enough sides all around to prevent spillage.

For the litter itself, avoid clay and clumping brands (very toxic), as well as pine and cedar scented ones (proven dangerous in many studies). A standard cat litter box works pretty well, you might want a covered one if your bunny likes to push the litter out (rascals!)

Confinement and supervision is critical for the early stages. (It's much kinder to go through this for a few weeks early on in a bunny's life so that it can have a life time of roaming about and interacting with the family). So you should start in one room, and confine your bunny to its cage (with the litter box) for a bit until you learn where (s)he likes to do the business. If it's in the litter box - great! If not, no worries, just move the box over that way.

After you've achieved success IN the cage, it's time to provide freedom. The key here is to do it only a little at a time, step by step (and be willing to go back a step if bunny makes a mistake).

So give bunny a limited area of freedom in the room, and make sure (s)he knows where the litter box is. (Spend some time getting bunny to come to the box with treats and praise).
Watch for signs that 'the business' is going to happen soon, get bunny to the box when it's going to happen, and give ample praise and treats when it does.
Just like you did in the cage, if bunny is making mistakes,... think of it as his or her way of telling you "the box belongs over here,... not where you put it"... and just move the box for bunny.
Sometimes you actually need to have two or three litter boxes in a larger space for a while... then you remove one at a time
Punishment is NOT a good idea for mistakes with rabbits. It's better to simply withold the rewards and treats and praise until you get the behavior you want. (And use a lot of patience)
Some people have trouble because they're not really sure how to know when their bunny is about to go. Establishing regular feeding times, and other routines will help with this problem. (Mostly though, you'll get used to your bunny's signs if you pay attention for a few weeks)
Once your bunny is using the litter boxes outside of the cage, the idea is to slowly expand their allowed roaming area, until you can confidently see your bunny anywhere in the house without worrying about 'little presents' (and smells).
Please note that litter training is almost never perfect... there are usually a few pellets left near the box which can be easily wiped away. (Bunnies aren't perfect... and neither are we, right?)

Rabbit Health

Rabbits are at risk from a number of rabbit specific diseases including myxomatosis and rabbit calicivirus, better known as VHD. There are vaccines available for these diseases from your vet.
Other diseases such as E Cuniculi, a protozoal disease that affects the central nervous system, are currently subject to research. Intervet produce a products called "Panacur Rabbit", a preventative treatment designed to be given for nine consecutive days every three to six months.
In commercial rabbitries, medication against coccidiosis is often added to the pellets. Medicated pellets can only be sold by companies that have a pharmaceutical licence and are not available 'over the counter' in pet shops.
Most rabbit disease in pet rabbits that have been vaccinated tends to be diet related. Selective feeding, lack of forage and overfeeding being the main culprits. Obesity leads to sticky bottom and fly strike, calcium deficiency or inadequate calcium in relation to phosphorous leads to dental problems through osteoporosis of the jaw.
The rabbit in the picture has a large dewlap. In obese rabbits with large dewlaps infections can occur in the moist folds which, if infected by Pseudomonas aeruginosa can sometimes turn an alarming shade of green. The dewlap in a non obese rabbit, if it is large, can make it difficult for the rabbit to groom itself and consume its own caecal pellets leading to 'sticky bottom' and the risk of fly strike. If problems occur, rabbits can have the rabbit equivalent of plastic surgery and have the dewlap reduced in size.
Other infections tend to be opportunist bacterial infections such as Staphylococcus aureaus, E Coli. Clostridium species or Pasteurella multocida. The bacteria are around in the background and infect animals that are stressed or already unwell. Examples of this are snuffles (low grade pasteurella), sore hocks and abscesses.
Rabbits are also susceptible to Coccidiosis (Eimeria sp), both the intestinal and liver varieties. Commercial rabbitries can buy pellets containing an anti-coccidiostat to protect against the intestinal varieties of this parasite but not the species that affects the liver. Most pet owners would never come across these medicated pellets but need to know that, should they do so, they are toxic to cavies or guinea pigs.

Rabbit Vaccination

Vaccination is used to protect animals from viral diseases. It is not effective against bacteria or other disease causing organisms and is effective only against the individual viral disease that it is designed for.
The two main diseases that have vaccines available in the UK are Myxomatosis and VHD or Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (also known as Rabbit Calicivirus Disease RCD, Rabbit Calicivirus RC, or Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease RHD)
Both diseases have a high fatality rate and do not respond to antibiotics. They are spread by contact and vectors such as fleas, mosquitoes or other animals.
Rabbits should be vaccinated against both diseases although the vaccinations should be given 2 weeks apart. Vaccination for Myxomatosis can be given from around 6 weeks and the VDH vaccine from 10 weeks. Boosters are annual for VHD and either annual or every 6 months for myxomatosis depending on the risk of infection locally.
I have received phone calls from several people who's rabbits have been vaccinated against myxomatosis and yet have still been infected. Some quite severely with lesions to the nose and ears which have caused parts of the ears or nose to drop off. In one thread on the Rabbit Rehome forum, Jack's-Jane is getting some data together regarding intradermal exposure to the vaccine following a study by experienced rabbit vet Frances Harcourt Brown which indicates the vaccine must be given in 3 places, the base of each ear and in the scruff.
Precautions should also be taken to keep fleas and mosquitoes away from the rabbit.

Feeding Your Pet Bunny for a Long Healthy Life

Most people think that rabbit pellets were especially formulated for their pet rabbit, but this is not the case. Pellets were originally formulated as a convenient and economical way to promote quick growth and weight gain in commercial rabbits raised for food and fur. Our rabbits are our friends and companions and we want them to live long, healthy lives. This is why it is crucial that we learn about and understand their dietary needs.Rabbits have a unique and delicate digestive system and it is important to take this into consideration when planning their meals. It is a system that is designed to take both energy and nutrients from food that is low in both, so providing a rabbit with a high fat/high protein, low fiber diet (pellets alone, for example) is a sure ticket to bad health and even a shortened life span. A healthy rabbit who is spayed or neutered, gets a proper diet and lives inside the home as a part of the family has a life span of eight to thirteen years.
Rabbit DigestionDigestion begins in the mouth. The food is mashed up by the teeth and mixed with saliva, which contains proteins that begin breaking down the food. When the food is swallowed it enters the stomach where it is mixed with stomach acid and digestive enzymes, which continue the digestion process. It then moves out of the stomach into the small intestine where nutrients are absorbed into the body, and then it continues on into the large intestine where the food particles are sorted by size. The larger particles of indigestible fiber drive the smaller fragments of digestible fiber backwards into the cecum, which is a large blind-ended sac located at the junction of the small and large intestines. The indigestible particles are then passed out in the fecal pellets (regular poop) and the cecum begins the fermentation process that will produce what is commonly referred to as night feces or cecotropes, which a rabbit will ingest directly from the anus. You can tell the difference between normal feces and cecotrophes by their soft, shiny clumped texture and often more pungent odor.A rabbit's cecum maintains a delicate mix of protozoa, yeast and good bacteria, which is crucial to keeping your rabbit healthy. If something upsets the delicate bacterial balance (such as stress; some oral antibiotics such as penicillin & related drugs; a high fat, low fiber diet; too many carbohydrates, etc.), bad bacteria will begin to grow. These bad bacteria produce toxins that can be harmful or fatal to your rabbit. On the other hand, the products of good cecal fermentation are crucial to healthy gut flora, because through coprophagy, the oral re-ingestion of the cecal pellets produced by this fermentation process, the rabbit can absorb by normal digestion the special nutrients and vitamins contained in the cecal pellets. Some evidence suggests that bacteria from these [re-ingested] cecal pellets help the food digest while in the stomach (Laura Tessmer, B.Sc. and Susan Smith, Ph.D: Rabbit Nutrition 1998).
The Importance of Fiber and a Proper DietWhen your rabbit is fed an improper diet that is, one that does not contain an adequate amount of [indigestible] fiber or one that is too high in carbohydrates the Gastro-Intestinal (GI) tract cannot function properly and it begins to shut down, causing various degrees of what is called GI stasis. GI stasis, if not taken care of immediately, can cause your rabbit to die a very painful death.So what is GI stasis really? When the speed with which material moves through the GIT is altered it can affect how quickly the stomach and cecum empty. When this happens we often see a dramatic decrease in the rabbit's appetite for both food and water, which only furthers the problem: The body still needs water to function so it takes it from the stomach and cecum, causing the contents of the entire GI tract (food, hair from grooming, etc.) to become further dehydrated and impacted. The bunny is then unable to pass the mass of food/hair in the stomach, feels full, uncomfortable and often gassy (due to the build-up of the bad bacteria in the cecum), which only adds to his "I don't want to eat" mentality! A rabbit in GI stasis will often stop eating, become anorexic and die. When a rabbit dies from GI stasis and its related problems it is most often due to hepatic lipidosis or Fatty Liver Disease, which is caused by the toxins produced by the bad bacteria in the cecum. In most cases, especially those caught early-on by observant owners, GI stasis can be reversed with time, patience and good advice from your rabbit vet. But our goal is to prevent it from happening at all.How Will I Know if My Rabbit is Having Problems?Check the feces while cleaning the litter box. A rabbit's feces should be plentiful, round like peas and of a uniform size and shape. No feces or a lot fewer than usual, misshapen feces, or those strung together with hair ("pearls") may mean bunny needs to see a vet. If giving your rabbit hairball remedy (malt flavored, the same used for cats) one inch once or twice a day for three days doesn't clear up the problem, or if bunny stops eating or drinking or is in pain consult a vet immediately. If there are no feces for 12-24 hours contact your vet immediately. Never give babies under six months old hairball remedy without first consulting your rabbit vet.While the use of hairball remedies as preventatives can be helpful, there is some question as to how helpful or harmful it is to administer them to rabbits already in GI stasis. If the intestinal contents are severely dehydrated and brick-hard (yes, we have seen this!), a coating of vaseline-like substance over them may merely impede their re-hydration and make it more difficult for the mass to break up and begin passing. For this reason, it is probably wise to concentrate on re-hydrating the intestinal contents before using petroleum-based laxatives, if they are to be used at all (Krempels, Dana M., PhD and Kelleher, Susan, DVM. GastroIntestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer. 1997.). And again, if your rabbit is experiencing GI stasis s/he needs to be seen by a good rabbit vet right away. At Zooh Corner, we generally administer one inch of hairball remedy once or twice a week as a preventative measure; during a heavy shed we may offer a rabbit a bit more, and we sometimes increase the daily greens ration a bit and/or rinse the produce directly before serving it in order to get more water into the bunny's system. This, in addition to a proper diet and plenty of fun and exercise, as well as close observation of the litter box and the general behavior and condition of the rabbits goes a long away towards keeping bunny GI tracts healthy and happy.Please take note: This situation, GI Stasis, is often misdiagnosed as "a hairball." And while the rabbit may indeed have a hair/food mass in his stomach, it is in fact a result of GI stasis, not the cause. Vet intervention is always called for when this sort of situation presents itself. Not all vets know and see rabbits, however, so it is important that you locate a good rabbit vet in your area before an emergency arises. Your rabbit-savvy vet will be able to examine your pet and tell you whether it is indeed GI stasis, or if there is an obstruction of some sort and s/he will then be able to present you with the proper course of action.
Prevention is Definitely Worth a Pound of Cure: The Basic Rabbit DietPellets and Hay: For rabbits under one year old free feed (as much as they want) a fresh, plain, high fiber (18-20%), mid-range protein (14% - 16%) pellet. Adult rabbits should get 1/4 cup of low protein (10% or lower), high fiber pellets PER DAY, per five (5) pounds of optimum* body weight. If you have a rabbit that is difficult to keep weight on or off, consult your vet. Do not feed your rabbit any of the many commercial pellet mixes that contain seeds, dried fruit or colored cereals. These commercial treat foods are geared to look pleasing to us humans, but they are definitely not in the best health interests of your pet rabbit. Rabbits are not seed, fruit or cereal eaters by nature and these types of junk foods are high in sugars and carbohydrates, which as we talked about earlier can lead to an overgrowth of bad bacteria.Hay is the most important factor in your rabbit's diet. It is his prime source of fiber, which is instrumental in keeping the gut in good working order. Hay has the added benefits of being good entertainment for your bunny, they love to rearrange it, dig it up and place it "just so," as well as a great source of chewing material which is necessary to keeping the teeth healthy. A rabbit's teeth grow continuously throughout his life and it is essential that we provide them with safe chewing materials such as hay and wooden chew toys to help keep them filed down. A rabbit with tooth problems is a rabbit on his way to having GI problems as well. Fresh timothy, oat and other grass hays should be available to all bunnies all the time. Alfalfa hay, which is higher in calories as well as calcium (which can cause kidney or bladder problems(sludge) in older rabbits) is okay to feed to physically fit bunnies under the age of one, but should be avoided for the average healthy, mature house rabbit. On the other hand, feeding alfalfa to younger bunnies may make it more difficult to switch over to the lower protein/calcium grass hays when they get older. We start all bunnies off with the grass hays; as they are getting a healthy alfalfa-based pellet, we don't feel the alfalfa hay is needed. Some rabbits have higher protein needs (older or sick rabbits, angoras, etc.) and may also need the alfalfa hay. Again, consult your vet with all special dietary questions. At Zooh Corner we feed a mixture of oat and timothy hay, as well as orchard grass and our seasonal "ZoohMix" (a blend of oat, wheat and barley hays) to bunnies of all ages, unless they are on special, vet prescribed diets. We feel that a variety of tastes encourages the bunnies to eat more hay, and the variety of nutrients may be beneficial. Certainly no harm is done! Anything to encourage more fiber consumption!It is best to avoid purchasing pellets and hays from grocery stores and pet store chains, as the feed can sit on the shelves or in storage for months, which makes it stale and lacking in proper nutrient values. You can usually purchase good quality pellets (OxBow, Purina High Fiber…) and hays from local feed stores, or online from our store. Some rabbit vets also sell high quality pellets, and often, local rabbit rescues will sell hays and pellets to help supplement the high costs of rescue (what we do).
Vegetables and Fruit: It is important to feed your rabbit a daily variety of fresh vegetables to help balance out the nutritional needs in his diet. Feed two to four cups of fresh vegetables for each five pounds of optimum body weight. All vegetables should be fresh, washed and organic whenever possible. (Note: Carrot tops & radish tops should be organic. Humans do not generally consume the tops of these vegetables, so little consideration is given to what pesticides are sprayed on them and they could be very dangerous or fatal to your rabbit.) To make sure your rabbit gets the necessary nutrients offer him at least three different vegetables daily (from our list of vegetables and fruits at the bottom of this page) and make sure one or more contain Vitamin A (noted with *).While you may occasionally feed your rabbit a bit of fruit, it is extremely important that you limit their intake to no more than one or two tablespoons of high fiber fruits (pears, apples, tomatoes...) per five pounds of optimum body weight, one or two times a week . Never give fruit to dieting bunnies. Too much sugar can make your bunny fat, because excess energy (a by-product of sugar consumption) is converted to - fat!
Feeding your rabbit a limited amount of high fiber pellets, abundant fresh grass hays and a daily assortment of fresh vegetables is a key factor in keeping your rabbit healthy. Keep in mind that time balance is just as important to your rabbit's diet as is nutritional balance. It is important to divide the pellets and vegetables between the morning and evening meals, while having hay and fresh water available at all times. And remember, exercise is just as important as diet in keeping the rabbit [gut] functioning and healthy. A rabbit should get a minimum of 3 - 5 hours out of cage exercise every day. Take all dietary changes slowly. Quick changes to the diet can cause diarrhea or an overgrowth of that bad bacteria in the gut. Also keep in mind that different rabbits have different dietary needs. Younger rabbits, elderly rabbits, smaller breeds such as the Netherlands Dwarf, large breeds like the Flemish Giant and long haired rabbits all have different needs and you should consult your Rabbit Vet for more specific information.

by Alexandra Logsdon in consultation with Dr. Ann McDowell, DVM

How to Care for Rabbits

Rabbits may be easy to love, but they're not quite as easy to care for.
These lovable, social animals are wonderful companions for people who take the time to learn about their needs.
Though providing care for these adorable creatures isn't difficult, rabbits have a long lifespan—more than 10 years—and many specific care requirements. Anyone considering adding a rabbit to their family should carefully research books and web sites on rabbit care before making a decision. Here are some quick tips to get you started:
Home Sweet Home
Indoors or Outdoors? Every rabbit owner should know that the safest place for a rabbit to live is indoors. Rabbits should never be kept outdoors! Domestic rabbits are different from their wild relatives—they do not tolerate extreme temperatures well, especially in the hot summer months. Even in a safe enclosure, rabbits are at risk from predators. Merely the sight or sound of a nearby wild animal can cause rabbits so much stress that they can suffer a heart attack and literally die of fear.
Caged or Free to Roam? Whether you decide to let your rabbit roam free in your entire home or just a limited area, it is important that you make everything rabbit-safe. One little bunny can easily find a whole lot of trouble in an average home. Because rabbits like to chew, make sure that all electrical cords are out of reach and outlets are covered. Chewing through a plugged-in cord can result in severe injury or even death. Their chewing can also result in poisoning if the wrong objects are left in the open or in unlocked low cabinets. Aside from obvious toxins like insecticides, rodenticides, and cleaning supplies, be aware that common plants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, and assorted plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.
If kept in a cage, rabbits need a lot of room to easily move around. A rabbit's cage should be a minimum of five times the size of the rabbit. Your rabbit should be able to completely stretch out in his cage and stand up on his hind legs without bumping his head on the top of the cage. Additionally, cages with wire flooring are hard on rabbits' feet, which do not have protective pads like those of dogs and cats. If you place your rabbit in a wire cage, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard or other material. Place a cardboard box or "rabbit condo" in the cage so the bunny has a comfortable place to hide, and respect your animal's need for quiet time (rabbits usually sleep during the day and night, becoming playful at dawn and dusk).
When rabbits are kept in a cage, they need to be let out for several hours each day for exercise. Aside from running and jumping, rabbits also enjoy exploring their surroundings. This is an ideal time to play and interact with your rabbit. Make sure that he has a safe area to play and explore.
Bunny Bathrooms
Just like cats, rabbits can easily learn to use a litter box. Place a litter box in the cage to encourage this behavior. If your rabbit roams freely through multiple rooms of your home, it's a good idea to have litter boxes in several places. Many rabbits enjoy spending time relaxing in their litter box, so make sure that it is of ample size. For bedding (litter), stay away from wood shavings, especially cedar and pine, which may cause liver damage or trigger allergic reactions in rabbits. Also avoid clumping or dusty kitty litters, which can cause serious health problems if eaten. Instead, stick with organic litters made of paper, wood pulp, or citrus. Newspaper can work too, but may not be as absorbent. Be sure to put fresh hay in the litter box daily, as many rabbits like to have a snack while sitting in their litter box.
A Balanced Diet
Rabbits have complex digestive systems, so it's very important that they receive a proper diet. Many health problems in rabbits are caused by foods that are incompatible with their digestive physiology. A basic rabbit diet should consist of the following foods:
Hay Rabbits need hay—specifically, Timothy grass hay. Rabbits should have access to a constant supply of this hay, which aids their digestive systems and provides the necessary fiber to help prevent health problems such as hair balls, diarrhea, and obesity. Alfalfa hay, on the other hand, should only be given to adult rabbits in very limited quantities, if at all, because it's high in protein, calcium, and calories.
Vegetables In addition to hay, the basic diet of an adult rabbit should consist of leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, arugula, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, and others. Variety is important, so feed your rabbit three different vegetables at a time. When introducing new veggies to a rabbit's diet, try just one at a time and keep quantities limited.
Fruits and Treats While hay and vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet, rabbits also enjoy treats. Cartoons and other fictional portrayals of rabbits would lead us to believe that carrots are the basis of a healthy rabbit diet. Many rabbits enjoy carrots, but they are a starchy vegetable and should only be given sparingly as a treat. Other treats your rabbit might enjoy are apples (without stems or seeds), blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums, or melon. Extra-sugary fruits like bananas, grapes, and raisins are good too, but should be given on a more limited basis.
Foods to Avoid With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don't feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything moldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit's veterinarian.
Pellets If you choose to make pellets a part of your rabbit's diet, it is best to use them as a supplement to the dark green, leafy vegetables, not as a substitute. These pellets should only be given in small quantities (1/8 -1/4 cup per five pounds of body weight per day, spread out over two daily feedings). Also, make sure to purchase Timothy-based pellets. Many brands of rabbit feed contain seeds, corn, and other foods that are too high in calories to be the basis for a healthy rabbit's diet.
Water Rabbits should always have an ample supply of fresh water available. Be sure to change your rabbit's water at least once each day. Water can be kept in a sipper bottle or bowl. If you use a sipper bottle, watch new rabbits to make sure they know how to use the bottles, and clean bottles daily so the tubes don't get clogged. If you use a bowl, make sure that the bowl is heavy enough to avoid tipping and spilling.
Chew on This
Chewing is part of a rabbit's natural behavior, but it doesn't have to be destructive. To keep rabbits active and amused, you may want to put untreated wood blocks or cardboard in their cages (Be sure to remove any staples or tape from cardboard first!). Bowls, balls, and rings made of willow wood are big hits with many rabbits and can be purchased online or in specialty stores. You can also use paper-towel rolls, toilet-paper rolls, and other chewable cardboard materials that can be tossed in the trash once they've served their purpose. Avoid objects with sharp edges, loose parts, or soft rubber that rabbits could chew into pieces and swallow.
Handle With Care
Rabbits are fragile animals who must be handled carefully. Their bones are so delicate that the muscles in their powerful hind legs can easily overcome the strength of their skeletons. As a result, if not properly restrained, struggling rabbits can break their own spines.
To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his back side, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit's body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.
Don't forget that rabbits are prey animals and many will not enjoy being picked up. Be sure to go slowly with your rabbit and practice. Let your rabbit get accustomed to being handled.
Rabbits groom each other around the eyes, ears, top of the nose, top of the head, and down the back, so they'll enjoy it if you pet them on their heads. Like any animal, each rabbit will have an individual preference about where he likes to be touched. Rabbits lack the ability to vomit or cough up hairballs like cats, so try to remove loose fur when you have the opportunity to do so. Simply petting or brushing your rabbit for a few minutes each day should remove most of the excess fur. Some rabbit breeds, such as angoras, have extra grooming needs because of their distinctive coats.
What's Up, Doc?
Just like cats and dogs, rabbits need to receive proper medical care, including annual check-ups. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat rabbits is much smaller. It is extremely important that any veterinarian treating a rabbit has experience with rabbits. Many veterinarians who treat rabbits will be called "exotics" veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, rabbit-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat rabbits.
Fix That Bunny
Spaying or neutering your rabbit is very important. Aside from preventing unwanted litters of kits, spaying or neutering has health and behavior benefits. Neutering males eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and can reduce aggression and territory-marking behaviors. Female rabbits have extremely high rates of reproductive cancers as they get older, but spaying them can eliminate those potential problems.
I Need a Friend
Rabbits are social animals and most will be much happier as a part of a pair or trio than on their own. If you don't have a rabbit yet, consider adopting a bonded pair instead of a single rabbit. Most animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups have pairs available for adoption. If you already have a rabbit, you should consider adding another one to the family. Local rabbit groups can usually find a good match for your rabbit and help with the introduction and bonding process.
When thinking about adding a rabbit to your family, please remember that rabbits are not toys and they are typically not appropriate pets for children. Rabbits are complex creatures—socially, psychologically, and physiologically. They require a great deal of special care and supervision. If you make the decision to add rabbits to your family, please don't buy from a pet store; instead, adopt from your local animal shelter or rabbit adoption group.